India’s reputation isn’t always positive.
Between safety concerns, cleanliness criticisms, and the hectic image often portrayed in the media—especially about the northern region—many people I’ve spoken to are hesitant to visit and even tried to talk me out of going when I shared that I would be traveling to the capital.
To many people’s surprise, I’ve actually been eager to visit India ever since moving to Qatar, a country heavily populated by Indians.
I finally made the trip happen with two of my colleagues, and in this Delhi, India travel guide, I’m excited to share everything I learned while exploring the city and to address some of the most common questions or concerns visitors may have about traveling here.

Table of Contents
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Entry Requirements
Visa Requirements
To enter India, most people need a visa or an e-Visa, depending on the agreement your country has with India and how long you will be staying.
Very few countries are eligible for visa-free travel or visa on arrival, so be sure to check which entry requirements apply to you.
Applying for an e-visa for India
As a U.S. passport holder staying for less than 60 days, I applied for an e-visa before traveling.
The e-arrival visa application can be filled out and submitted online through the Indian visa website.
Many websites I have seen recommend applying up to 72 hours before travel, but I highly recommend submitting your application at least 3 weeks before you travel in case of delays or issues.
I found that the website was extremely outdated, frequently crashed, and caused several technical problems. I even had to switch between two browsers over two days just to successfully submit my form.

Thankfully, the system allows you to save your progress and return later, as long as you keep the code associated with your application.
Once I submitted my e-Visa application, I was also asked to provide additional information/clarification about my trip via email, so my e-Visa took additional days to process.
Thankfully, I received my visa on time, but I recommend applying 3-4 weeks before your trip to be on the safe side.
Checking in our flight
We experienced some delays at check-in for our flight because we weren’t aware of an e-arrival form that needed to be completed within 72 hours of arrival in India.
I recommend completing the form before you get to the airport, as I had to fill it out while in line, which caused a delay.
It’s also a good idea to print your e-visa, as having a physical copy can help speed up the check-in process and make things smoother upon arrival in Delhi.

Arriving at the Indira Gandhi International Airport
The main international airport in Delhi is the Indira Gandhi International Airport (DEL).
After landing, I went through immigration, where the officers were nice and curious about my profession and the purpose of my visit. I picked up my luggage shortly after, as our bags came out quickly, and the entire process took about 30 minutes.
While I expected the airport to be very hectic and overwhelming, it was actually much smaller and calmer than I thought it would be (at least in the terminal I arrived in), which had fewer baggage carousels.
I did see a money exchange counter at the airport if you need one.


The Best Way to Leave the Airport
Given the safety warnings many people share about India, even from Indians I know, my colleague and I booked a taxi pickup through Booking.com to make sure we had a reliable way to get to our hotel, especially since we landed at 3 a.m.
No matter what time you arrive, I recommend arranging airport transportation in advance.
If you’re landing late at night or early in the morning, booking directly through your hotel is ideal, even if it costs a bit more.


If booking with your hotel isn’t possible or is outside your budget, pre-booking a driver through a reputable service is the next best option.
While there are plenty of taxi drivers at the airport, having a pre-arranged pickup is the safer and more convenient choice, so you are ready to go.
Here are some options for airport pickup I’ve found that have great reviews:
- Delhi Airport Private One-Way Transfer
- New Delhi: One-Way Transfer Airport to Hotel
- New Delhi Airport: One-Way Transfer Arrival and Departure

Currency + Money in India
The currency used in India is the Indian Rupee (INR).
You can use both cards and cash throughout the country, but having cash on hand is necessary.
I was able to use my card at many restaurants and some stores, but there were still plenty of places, especially smaller shops and markets, that required cash.
During my trip, I exchanged money at a currency exchange shop in Connaught Place (with a guide) and also used the exchange services offered at my hotel.
Planning Tip: Check ahead of time whether your hotel has an ATM or money exchange services. Knowing your options in advance can save time and make it easier to access cash when you need it.

Language Spoken in India
Several languages are spoken throughout India, but the country has two official languages: Hindi and English.
In Delhi, Hindi is the most commonly spoken language, but English is widely understood in hotels, restaurants, shops, and most tourist areas.
If you speak English, you should be able to navigate the city comfortably.
You will likely encounter people who do not speak English, but you should have a guide with you for most of your time in India, so communication should not be a problem.

Safety in Delhi
There’s a lot to unpack when it comes to safety in India.
While safety concerns exist worldwide, some destinations receive more attention for these issues, and India is undeniably one of them.
India does have a documented track record of assault, rape, groping, harassment, theft, and a range of other safety-related issues that can understandably deter some travelers.
When I was researching for my trip, I noticed a strong divide in people’s experiences: some travelers reported highly concerning incidents, while others felt they navigated the country safely by being as cautious as possible.

Should You Travel to India Solo?
As someone who originally planned to travel to India solo and has traveled to several countries solo, I personally would not recommend Delhi as a solo-travel destination, especially for women.
During my own trip, I always had at least one other person with me, and for most activities we hired local guides.

This made me feel much more secure during my time in Delhi and Agra.
I highly recommend hiring guides, especially when visiting crowded places like markets.
Even with a guide, we still experienced two incidents where locals touched us inappropriately—a butt was touched in passing while at a market, and a man attempted to wrap his arms around my waist at that same market, also in passing.

While it’s important not to generalize about any group of people, I did find that some interactions, particularly with men in very crowded spaces, could feel uncomfortable.
I would not personally choose to navigate extremely busy areas of Delhi alone.
Crowded spaces in Delhi can become overwhelming very quickly.
In situations where hundreds of people are moving in different directions, it can be difficult to stay aware of your surroundings, notice if someone is following you, or identify who may have touched you if something happens. This is another reason I advise having a guide or companion.

Despite this, it was very clear that having a local guide with us prevented many other potential issues.
Their presence alone seemed to discourage approaches at restaurants, where the staring was intense, but we did get followed on some tours where people tried to take pictures of us, and we had to get vocal about not wanting our pictures taken and saying no when people asked.
Traveling in India as a woman already comes with unique considerations, but traveling as a Black woman adds an additional layer of visibility and curiosity from locals.
I did extensive research before my trip, so nothing I encountered truly shocked me. I felt mentally prepared for the realities of traveling in India, and that preparation, along with having other people with me and guides, made the experience much safer and more manageable overall.

Getting A SIM Card for India
E-SIM Card
To avoid having to stop at any booths, I purchased an eSIM card from Holafly, my go-to eSIM company, before arriving in Delhi around 3 AM.
I set it up before leaving and immediately had service as soon as I landed in Delhi.
My signal was also very strong throughout my trip, and I did not have any issues staying connected.
You can use my link to get 5% off your eSIM!

I used Holafly to have data while traveling in India, and the connection was stable and very convenient, so I highly recommend using the link above to secure yours before traveling!
Do you need a local SIM card in Delhi?
I recommend getting a SIM card while traveling in Delhi, as you will need data to order Ubers and communicate with your tour guides.
It’s also helpful for using Google Maps to get to destinations within the city if you are making plans as you go or trying to find a particular destination.
Getting Around Delhi: Transportation I Used
Rickshaws
Rickshaws, often called tuk-tuks in other parts of the world, are a common and convenient way to get around Delhi.
You can flag one down from the side of the street and negotiate the fare directly with the driver, or, for a more convenient, set-price option, I used the Uber app to request one, since it is an option there!


Booking through Uber allows you to pay by card and avoid back-and-forth bargaining, so I found the process very easy and efficient.
Planning Tip: Rickshaws are open-air vehicles, so always keep an eye on your belongings. Make sure your purse or bag is securely strapped to your body and not easily accessible. Keep your phone secure as well to avoid it being snatched out of your hand by motorbike riders.
Uber Black
Uber is available throughout Delhi, and for safety reasons, Uber Black is often considered the most reliable option to choose when using the app in the city.
The service typically uses higher-quality vehicles and more experienced drivers, which can add an extra layer of comfort and security, especially for travelers who are unfamiliar with the area.
Uber Black cars are easy to identify, as many have the Uber Black logo on the exterior.

Inside, many Uber Black cars (and other Uber car categories, I believe) also have a panic or emergency button, which allows you to quickly call for help if you ever feel unsafe.
I felt comfortable ordering and taking Uber Black while in Delhi and would use it as a reliable means of transport on future trips.
Metro
Delhi has a metro system that I had the chance to take with one of my guides on the way to a market, and it was a really exciting experience.
I love exploring public transportation in different cities around the world, so I was happy to experience this part of daily life in India.

Because traffic in India can be intense, the metro is often used to bypass heavy congestion, making it a practical and time-saving option.
I found the metro in Delhi to be very clean with plenty of seating available inside of the cars.
While trains in India are sometimes associated with groping or other inappropriate behavior, the Delhi Metro felt safe.



We didn’t experience any issues, and most passengers seemed focused on simply getting to their destinations and didn’t seem to care that we were tourists, as they did in other areas we had traveled to up to that point.
There is also a women-only car, which is always a nice feature.
You can purchase a Metro Card at any station and load it with travel credit as needed.
Cycle Rickshaws
Cycle rickshaws are human-powered carts and are another common form of transportation in Delhi.
You’ll mostly see them in markets and certain neighborhoods where streets are too narrow or crowded for cars and auto-rickshaws to pass through easily.
There are several of them available, and their owners might even approach you for a ride.
We rode a cycle rickshaw out of the market because it was too crowded.
The fare for these rides is usually negotiated beforehand, based on the distance and the individual rickshaw driver, so it’s best to agree on a price before you start the journey, or be flexible to account for any traffic delays along the way.

Where to Stay in Delhi
When it came to choosing where we would stay after long days of exploring, I was very firm about not compromising safety for a cheaper option.
Because of this, I did not feel comfortable staying in an Airbnb or budget hotel. Instead, we opted for a hotel with a strong reputation and high security, which led us to book a stay at the ITC Maurya Hotel in New Delhi.
This is a luxury five-star property located in the city’s diplomatic area, known for its security and safety, and commonly used by political figures, diplomats, and celebrities when they visit Delhi.
About the Hotel
A Marriott property, ITC Maurya blends Indian heritage with elegance and offers much to guests.
Guests can enjoy its award-winning restaurants, Bukhara and Dum Pukht, relax by the outdoor swimming pool, or unwind at Kaya Kalp, its on-site spa known for holistic Indian therapies.
The hotel also features a well-equipped fitness center, along with convenient services such as daily housekeeping, concierge assistance, and laundry facilities.

Inside My Room
I booked the Executive Club Exclusive Room at a rate of about $368/night when I stayed.



I visited in early October, during a period filled with holidays and celebrations, which likely contributed to the higher prices.
Now that I’m checking current rates, they’re about half of what I paid. The hotel ended up being the biggest expense of the trip.



Would I Stay Again?
Overall, I would definitely stay here again.
My room was very comfortable, and I loved the bed.
The service was excellent, and, most importantly, I felt completely safe throughout my stay in my room alone.
After busy days in the city, the hotel was a comforting and reliable place to return to, offering both relaxation and peace of mind thanks to its well-monitored, professionally managed environment.
I ordered room service a few times as well and was pleasantly surprised at how affordable the menu was.


Dress Code in Delhi
Before traveling to Delhi, I honestly wasn’t sure what to expect in terms of dress code, as it was hard to gauge how conservative the city actually was based on what I found online.
After visiting, I can say that Delhi is a place where leaning toward modest clothing is a good idea.
The modesty level isn’t as strict as I’ve seen in some countries (like those with a Muslim majority), as I did see shorts, tank tops, and even some midriff, but overall, it’s still best to choose outfits that cover your shoulders and knees when you’re out and about.



This is especially important if you plan to visit religious or cultural sites. Dressing modestly also helps you avoid standing out as a tourist.
Because of the warm weather, I highly recommend wearing lightweight, breathable fabrics and flowy, comfortable clothing that you can easily move around in while exploring.
Things to Do in Delhi
Most things to do in Delhi revolve around exploring its rich history, vibrant neighborhoods, and diverse cultural landmarks.
As a tourist, you’ll find that Delhi offers countless activities and experiences to keep you busy throughout your visit, many of which are free.
However, for most of the activities and sights to see I mention below, I have included some guided tours for each in case you are not up for visiting alone and would feel more comfortable going with a guide (highly recommend).

Take a rickshaw city tour with a local guide
A Google search led us to our main tour guide in Delhi, Billu, the owner of Delhi Tuk Tuk Tours.
Billu has built his business by driving tourists around Delhi in his rickshaw, showcasing some of the city’s most well-known landmarks.

He offers half-day, full-day, and fully customized tours, working closely with you to make sure you see exactly what you want during your time in Delhi.
Booking with Billu was very convenient, as he was highly responsive and easy to communicate with. He met us at our hotel right on time and took us to all the sites we had planned to visit.
Getting around the city by rickshaw was incredibly convenient. Its compact size made navigating Delhi’s busy streets much easier, and with the three of us, transportation was quick and efficient.



Billu has a fantastic personality and kept us laughing throughout the day. He truly went above and beyond, showing us even more than we had planned—even when we were completely exhausted and thought we couldn’t see anything else!
We even unexpectedly booked him again the next day to help us get around to additional sites.
I would absolutely use Billu again on my next trip to Delhi. This is a wonderful way to experience the city while supporting a local business.
Cost:
- Half Day Tour (5 hours): 1200 INR – $13.25
- Full Day Tour (8 hours): 1800 INR – $20.30
- 600 INR for fuel/rickshaw fee – $6.77



Other Delhi City Tours Available:
- Delhi City Tour: Old, New, or Both – Half & Full Day Options
- Private Full Day City Tour Of Delhi With Guide
- Old Delhi City Tour with Tuk Tuk Ride & Street Food
Revisit the Legacy of Gandhi at the Gandhi Smriti Museum
The Gandhi Smriti Museum was the first site I visited in Delhi.
It is a memorial and museum dedicated to the life of Mahatma Gandhi.

The museum documents Gandhi’s philosophy, personal life, and his role in India’s independence movement.
The visit was very reflective, as I learned many things I hadn’t known before, like about his time in South Africa and the extent to which it shaped his advocacy for Indian rights.
We did not see any guides during our visit. However, many of the exhibitions and murals include written explanations, making it a largely self-guided experience unless you visit with a private guide.



Cost: FREE
Guided Gandhi Smriti Museum Tours Available:
- Gandhi Museum & Raj Ghat Private Guided Tour
- Delhi Footsteps of Mahatma Gandhi Half-Day Tour
- Gandhi’s Life and Legacy Guided Tour
Admire the art murals of the Lodhi Art District
Residential buildings with large street murals by Indian and international artists make the Lodhi Art District the place to go to see vibrant works of art.

The murals are absolutely stunning and depict a range of themes, such as social issues, history, identity, and more.
You can take a stroll through the area to admire each mural and take photos, or ride through on a rickshaw and stop along the way.



Cost: FREE
Lodhi Art District Tours:
- Delhi Street Art Tour
- Delhi Street Art Tour: Explore the Murals & Visit a Stepwell
- Explore Delhi’s Street Art & Visit to an Art Centre
Visit the historic Red Fort
One of Delhi’s most iconic landmarks, the Red Fort served as the main residence of the Mughal rulers, a dynasty that governed parts of India for centuries before independence.
The fort is constructed from red sandstone, making it a stunning contrast against the blank backdrop.


Today, the fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an important national monument.
Cost:
- Children Under 15 Years: FREE
- Citizens from Bangladesh, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Maldives and Afghanistan) and BIMSTEC Countries: 50 INR (Cash) – $0.55 or 35 INR (Online Payment) – $0.39
- Other Foreigners: 600 INR (Cash) – ($6.62) or 550 INR (Online) – $6.07
Red Fort Tours:
- Skip-the-Line Guided Tour of Delhi’s Iconic Red Fort
- UNESCO World Heritage Walking Tour of Red Fort
- Red Fort Guided Tour with Entry Ticket
Dive into India’s street food scene
One thing I really wanted to do on my trip to Delhi was try some street food.
If you’ve watched videos about street food in India, you know it is often portrayed in a very unhygienic light, which is a conversation for another day.
However, I was determined to find a street food tour that would let me try a variety of foods in a stomach-friendly way.



I came across Namaste Delhi through another creator who posted about her street-food tour with them, and I booked their Culinary Delights tour.
Our guide, Sanjara, met us at our hotel, and we took a metro ride to the market where we started our tour.
The metro ride was unplanned, which I really enjoyed because it allowed us to experience something new with a local and was very interesting.



Over the course of 4 to 5 hours, we were taken to various places throughout the market and got to try different foods.
I can say I enjoyed everything I tried, and I really, really loved this tour. I would highly recommend it.
Cost: $50/person
Learn about the significance of the Humayun’s Tomb
Often referred to as the “Little Taj Mahal” due to its similarities to the Taj Mahal, Humayun’s Tomb was the first garden tomb in the Indian subcontinent.

We paid for a guided tour around the tomb, during which the history was explained to us, along with its symmetrical layout, which was interesting and definitely worth the experience.


Our tour was conducted by Rakesh Sharma, who works in the museum’s archaeology department, and was incredible.
His WhatsApp is +91 98 73 17 96 82 if you want to get in touch ahead of time to set up a tour.
Cost: 600 INR Entry Fee
**Additional Fee for Guided Tour**



Experience a Sikh Temple and its community kitchen
Sikh temples, called Gurdwaras, are places of worship for those who practice Sikhism, a religion that originated in India in the 15th century.

The temples are open to everyone, regardless of religion or background, so we were able to go inside the Gurdwara Bangla Sahib Sikh Temple with our guide, Billu, and see the prayer hall where scripture was being read and prayers were taking place.



Sikh temples also have community kitchens that serve free meals to all visitors. The food is prepared in large quantities and served while everyone sits together on the carpeted floor.
Planning Tip: You must be covered while visiting the temple and wear a head covering, so be sure to wear appropriate attire.


Cost: FREE
Sikh Temple Tour:
Pay respects at the burial site of Gandhi
Raj Ghat is a memorial in New Delhi dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi.
The memorial is said to mark the exact spot where he was assassinated.
It is set in a garden and features a black marble platform that visitors gather around to pay their respects to the eternal flame that burns at the site.
Cost: FREE



Walk through one of Delhi’s most vibrant markets
Chandni Chowk Market is one of Delhi’s oldest and busiest markets, located in the heart of Old Delhi.
The market has everything you could imagine, including traditional Indian clothing, jewelry, spices, food, and much more.



Its narrow lanes, packed crowds, and vibrant atmosphere give you a true taste of local life in Delhi.
We visited the market with a guide, which is definitely the way to go, as it is extremely crowded and can be hard to know which way to exit because there are few clear markings.
Planning Tip: There is a lot of trash on the ground at this market, so be sure to wear closed-toed shoes.



Step inside of a lotus-flower shaped temple
The Lotus Temple is a place of worship for those in India who follow the Bahá’í Faith.
What makes it especially special is its architectural design, which features 27 marble petals arranged in clusters, creating a stunning sight.

The temple is surrounded by gardens and reflecting pools, creating an even more peaceful environment.
The temple is also open to people of all religions and backgrounds, so we were able to go inside.
Inside, the temple leads to a simple hall used mainly for meditation and prayer, without any formal ceremony. We sat in silence with everyone else, and once people were done meditating or praying, they went on their way.


Cost: FREE
Planning Tip: You must remove your shoes at the entrance before entering the temple, so keep this in mind.
Lotus Temple Tours:
- Lotus Temple Guided Tour with Hotel Pickup
- Delhi Lotus Temple Walking Tour
- From New Delhi Airport Guided Layover Old & New Delhi Tour
Embark on a day tour to the Taj Mahal
No visit to India is complete without seeing one of the world’s wonders, the Taj Mahal in Agra.
Located about 4 hours from Delhi by car, we hired a guide and left around 2:30 AM to catch the sunrise.


The roads were very clear, and while we were initially warned that it could be dangerous due to sleepy truck drivers at that hour, we didn’t have any issues. It felt very safe, and I actually love that we left earlier.
We took rest stops along the way, and the cooler morning weather made the journey more comfortable.


When we arrived at the Taj Mahal around 6:30 AM, there was already a crowd. We had to put our bags through scanners, and some items—such as food—are not allowed inside, so be sure to check what you can and can’t bring.
Our guide, born and raised in Agra, provided a wonderful tour of the Taj Mahal and answered all our questions.

This was my second world wonder this year, unintentionally, and I felt incredibly grateful to experience it.
Planning Tip: There are photographers on-site who will take photos with professional cameras if you wish, so dress accordingly if you want to take advantage of this.



Cost:
You can purchase your tickets online ahead of time here. There are different rates for Indians and foreigners.
- Taj Mahal Only: 1050 INR ($11.59)
- Taj Mahal with Mausoleum: 1250 INR ($13.80)
Take a journey inside of the walls of the Agra Fort
By 9:00 AM, we were done touring the Taj Mahal, and since we were already in Agra, we decided to add Agra Fort to our itinerary, as it was only a five-minute drive away.

Agra Fort is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, built from red sandstone, and served as the main residence of the Mughal emperors until the capital shifted to Delhi.
It functioned as both a military structure and a royal palace.
You can also book a guide here to help explain the significance of the fort.



Cost:
You can purchase your tickets online ahead of time here. There are different rates for Indians and foreigners.
- Foreigners: 550 INR ($6.07)
Go on a peaceful morning walk at the Lodhi garden
One of my most peaceful mornings in Delhi started at Lodhi Garden.
The garden is a peaceful, historic public park in New Delhi, featuring landscaped gardens, walking paths, and the tombs of the Lodi Dynasty for those interested in learning more.
The garden has lots of greenery, is quiet, and is a great place to relax, exercise, or simply spend time in nature.
I would have definitely felt comfortable coming here alone, while still taking general precautions and being aware of my surroundings.
Cost: FREE


Where to Eat in Delhi
Indian food is one of my favorite cuisines, and I was really looking forward to experiencing it in India.
Unfortunately, I ended up eating mostly at the hotel and on tours and didn’t get to explore as much of the local dining scene as I originally planned—my only regret about this trip.
However, I did get the chance to try a few spots, and in this section, I’ll share the places I visited.
Bukhara
Bukhara was one of the restaurants inside the hotel we stayed at, and is also one of India’s most famous restaurants, having won many awards and received international recognition.
The décor was absolutely beautiful, a blend of rustic elegance, with thoughtful touches that truly enhanced the dining experience.

The menu is printed on a block of wood, which is very unique, and the seating consists of stools, encouraging a more communal dining style.


One of my favorite parts of dining here was the open kitchen, where you can watch the chefs in action as they prepare the meals. This always adds a special touch, and I really love that kind of engagement in a culinary experience.
The food, of course, was delicious, and I finally got to try Gulab Jamun, an Indian dessert I had been waiting to try in India for the first time. It was incredible.



Nizam’s Kathi Kabab
This was a quick stop, as we needed something fast to eat before heading back to our hotel after a long day out, and our guide recommended getting a kebab at Nizam’s.
The restaurant is known for its kebabs but also serves curries, bread, rice, bowls, and desserts.

For those who want a quick bite, there is a standing area, as well as plenty of seating for those with more time.
I ordered a single chicken kebab for 330 INR and didn’t think much of it, assuming it would be a basic snack. However, it was absolutely delicious!


Connaught Clubhouse
Connaught Clubhouse is Delhi’s first German microbrewery, located in Connaught Place, an area known for its wide range of retail options, numerous restaurants and cafés, and as a business hub.

The menu is a fusion of Indian and international cuisines, and the atmosphere is lively and social, with a great vibe.

We stopped by for lunch, and it was definitely a great choice. I ordered:
- Jamaican Breezer – 350 INR ($3.86)
- Chili Paneer – 655 INR ($7.23)
- Sweet Potato Taco – 535 INR ($5.91)
The venue also often hosts live music, events, and theme nights, making it a great place to return in the evening. I would actually recommend it more for dinner, if you have the chance.



Final Thoughts on Delhi
Visiting Delhi was a trip I’m so happy I was able to make happen.
Exploring India has been a long-time goal for me, and this experience reminded me how important it is to see places for myself, regardless of what the overwhelming majority might say about a destination.
Delhi has so much energy, which I truly appreciated, and it deepened my admiration for Indian culture, something I hope to continue exploring in the years to come through more travels across the country and its different regions.

Throughout my time in Delhi, it was clear that India has preserved its monuments exceptionally well and takes pride in maintaining historic structures to pass down that knowledge to future generations.
There’s a lot to consider and prepare for when traveling to India, so it may not be the easiest destination to navigate, especially for first-time travelers.
However, despite the challenges, it is absolutely worth visiting.


